The Kāpŏk Tree

About 30 minutes before dark, Raul gave the order to start back down the stairs. We all gathered at the base of the tree, took a few last minute photos and then started back down the trail towards the canoe. By the time we arrived back at the canoe, dusk was settling in over the rain forest. We paddled our way back up the stream to the lake just as the sun was setting. We got some spectacular photos, and even an 8ft Caiman showed us his head a few feet from our canoe. By the time we reached the other end of the lake, it was fully dark.

We traversed our way back down the original black water stream. Jose obviously knew these waters well, as he paddled us all the way back to the dock, in the dark, and never grounded the canoe, or hit a log or tree or anything. As each person exited the canoe, they left and started along the boardwalk. Kathy and I climbed out last and started towards the river along the boardwalk. There was no moon and it was very dark. We could not even see the light of the others who left a few minutes before us. Kathy and I used our iPhones for flash lights. It was enough to illuminate the path enough to be safe. At one point we stopped and turned off our lights. It was pitch dark. Nothing could be seen. The sounds of the jungle really come alive when that is the only sense your body can use!

Foam in the River

When we arrived back at the river bank, the large motorized canoe was there waiting. We did not have to wonder long how the canoe that could not drop us off this morning could pick us up this evening. While we were out hiking all day, the river had risen 4 feet. The rains up stream had reached us and what a difference it made. The current was flowing much faster. The sandbar and quicksand we had crossed this morning was completely gone. The river was covered in white frothy foam. The foam is naturally occurring and is a byproduct of plants growing along the river. 

In all the excursions we had been on all week, this was the first time we used lights to navigate the river at night. All the previous late excursions, we just took off in the boat and it was very dark. It’s amazing, and scary, how well our driver can navigate the river in the dark. This night though the lights were on. The higher water level is a blessing, but also a curse. When the river rises that fast, it carried a lot of debris with it. Debris can include trees. Large whole trees. Large whole trees that can sink a boat. So they used the lights to watch out for debris. Simple enough. No worries, our crew have proven to be competent and knowledgeable of these waters. We put our complete trust in their hands, and enjoy the ride and the foam.

When we caught up to the Manatee, it had some large flood lights illuminating the river. This was the first time the Manatee had moved in the dark as well. Normally the Manatee only navigates during the day, when Captain Dali can actually see the river, sandbars, etc. The captain needed the Manatee to go another mile or so before we docked for the night. The rapidly rising water had hindered their upstream progress during the day and they were behind schedule a little bit. We safely managed the river at the hand of Captain Dali. Within the hour, we reached the spot where the captain wanted to spend the night. He steered the boat over alongside the river bank, and the crew tied a rope to the nearest tree, just like they did every night. We were set for the night. What a great day!